2011年11月27日星期日

Upcycling with Style(ists)


I was not expecting the invitation that arrived in Berkana’s inbox late last year to give an upcycling workshop for 100 of Redken UK’s top clients. I still haven’t any idea how the company learned about our work to re-imagine trash but the practice fit well with the theme of their 2011 annual conference: Inspiring the Future. At first, I wasn’t sure about working with Redken, given that it is a big corporation that their profit generating activities do not likely include dumpster diving.
One of the key principles that we have been using within the Upcycling Initiative is to start with the waste we generate ourselves. So it was a little frustrating when our contacts at Redken UK explained that it would be impossible for conference participants or organizers to source waste for the workshop (given that they were flying from England). In the end we came up with a great solution upon considering the types of waste generated in this industry. Magazines are something found in nearly all salons and they are also a versatile and beautiful material to upcycle. Though we recognized the challenge of bring waste materials in bulk, we realized that if each participant brought one or two magazines that they were ready to get rid of we would end up 100 – 200 magazines.
The workshop in January was a personal challenge because magazines are not a medium I had worked with in the past. I had to learn two entirely new techniques in a few short months. The workshop included three projects – paper jewellery, baskets and bowls. The group of participants was divided into 15 teams of five, and there were five teams working on each of the three projects. The workshop was intended as a group-building session and to encourage collaboration between participants who did not formerly know one another. This made the experience fun for me since teambuilding dynamics are something that I enjoy hosting. I was available to offer tips and advice to participants during the hands-on portion of the workshop, but essentially I laid out a few guidelines and left the stylists up to their own devices to create something together. The “rules” included things like: work must be done collectively, a concrete product must be produced and there was a time limit of one hour. I also pointed out that teams had a limited set of tools to work with and I encouraged groups to make decisions about how they wanted to divide the labor and make the best use of materials before beginning.
I was pleasantly surprised when the majority of the people a) chose to participate in the workshop on the sunny rooftop of the hotel and b) were truly engaged in their teams and committed to creating things together from waste. Participants made necklaces and earrings adorned with the flowers from the tables, a beautiful bowl to hold a wine bottle, many baskets and bowls, and even an upcycled brassiere. At the end we took a few moments to reflect on the experience. Though it was a challenge to gather the energy on the rooftop, a few commented on the experience of working in teams, the importance of clear instructions. My impression was that the participants in the conference really enjoyed the experience, were happy to be let loose from the dungeon-like conference room, and that many genuinely worked together as a team. What impacted me the most, as it often does regardless of the audience, is the infinite creativity of human beings. Even in non-ideal circumstances, in which we fear that people may be more reserved or concerned about what others will think, our creative nature finds it’s way out.
There is another significant story related to the Redken work in San Diego that was as important, if not more, than the workshop itself. As I mentioned, I was somewhat concerned about the sourcing of magazines locally. Though we requested that the conference organizers communicate to the participants about bringing along a magazine or two, I knew there was little chance that we would have enough this way. About a week before leaving for California I did some research to find out if there was anything like the Re-Store in Berkeley (a place that collects and sorts waste of all kinds and sells it to artists, teachers and others). Though I didn’t find anything quite like that I came upon a woman by the name of Erin Pennell who owns a business called the Rare H.A.R.E. Studio. She does arts and crafts workshops with kids using trash. I wrote to Erin to find out if she knew where I might be able to track down a few hundred old magazines. Within the hour she had written back wanting to know more about the workshop, me, upcycling and the upcycling portal.
Erin said that she could likely track down the magazines, but that she would like to be able to participate in the workshop in return. Though it didn’t seem like that great of a deal at the time, I told her that it was kind of a “closed” event and so participating wasn’t really likely, but that she was welcome to come and help me out. I went to pick up the magazines and see the Rare H.A.R.E. and we had a great long discussion about the studio, her thoughts on upcycling property rights and patents and her dreams for the future. It was such a rich and great conversation and connection. I was reminded of the importance of finding strength and solidarity by meeting other practitioners and hearing their stories. Erin also basically saved my butt with the Redken folks. Because of a last minute change in the scheduling, we weren’t able to set up the space beforehand. During my brief presentation Erin and the hotel staff managed to get all of the magazines and materials out on the tables and ready for the participants. This was just another reminder of the principle: we have what we need. I never imagined that sending off one random e-mail inquiry would lead to the formation of a key relationship for the success of the event. But I am truly grateful to Erin for stepping up, supporting me in a somewhat unfamiliar and intimidating environment. I hope that we will stay in touch and that someday I might repay the favor.
Although this experience may not have had a lasting impact on the lives of 90 hairstylists from the U.K. and perhaps they did not start suddenly upcycling their rubbish, the experience was a successful one. It helped build my confidence and deepen my belief that human beings are creative and truly want to figure out a better way of living on this planet.
See more photos from the workshop in this gallery.

Upcycling hits The New York Times


This article about Terra Cycle appeared on April 29, 2009 in The New York Times:

‘Upcycling’ for Not-So-Green Consumers

By most accounts, a growing number of consumers appear willing to pay the so-called “green premium” for environmentally friendly products.
report released in January by the Boston Consulting Group, for example, found that of 4,000 consumers surveyed worldwide, almost a third said they were willing to ante up a bit more for green products — especially for fresh and prepared foods, and large appliances.
That survey, conducted last October, dovetails with previous consumer studies.
But one high-profile eco-capitalist disputes the notion as wildly out of touch with mainstream America, which mainly shops in big-box stores. “The reality is that people don’t pay the green premium,” Tom Szaky, the founder ofTerracycle Inc., said in an interview on Tuesday. “People in this economy buy on price, price and price.”
Founded in 2001 by Mr. Szaky while he was at Princeton University, Terracycle, which characterizes itself as an “upcycler,” is a kind of perpetual motion machine, producing a range of products, including bird feeders, planters and pouches made from recycled materials like used soda bottles and juice boxes.
The company pays volunteer groups from churches and schools and other organizations to collect the waste materials on a per-piece basis, and it also buys “post-industrial” packaging from partner companies like Kraft Foods. Terracycle’s packaging, on products like its household cleaners, can also be recycled once they are no longer needed.
Mr. Szaky’s disdain for the green premium is grounded in Terracycle’s rock-bottom raw material costs. In 2008, the company and its corporate partners paid out only $100,000 for 1.6 million juice boxes, one million wrappers and 750,000 yogurt cups. Last month, the company announced a joint venture with Mars, the candy-bar giant, which is expected to bring in 3,000 tons of wrappers in the first year.
The low input costs result in low price points. So, unlike many companies that produce eco-goods, Terracycle can sell mainly in large chains, including Wal-Mart, Target and Petco. “People who shop at boutiques already buy green, so you’re not making an incremental change,” says Mr. Szaky.
The people who have to be convinced are those who don’t care about the evnironment, he added.
In the coming months, Terracycle is also gearing up to expand its operations into Brazil, Mexico and Britain. In Brazil, the company will recruit groups to collect Frito-Lay’s Sun Chip bags, which will be shredded and turned into clip boards.
Mr. Szaky allows that his company expends energy in its shipping and production processes, and notes that Zero Footprint, of Toronto, is currently working up a formal consumption analysis. But, he adds, “You’re not using virgin material. The impact is huge.”

Upcycling: Re-imagining Our Waste


Upcycling: Re-imagining Our Waste

 

Nature does not know the concept of waste; the only species capable of making something no one desires is the human species."  - Gunter Pauli, Zero Emissions Research and Initiatives

Every day, people everywhere churn out mountains of plastic and non-biodegradable waste which threaten to eclipse our living spaces. At one point in time people all over the world simply threw their “waste” onto the ground where it was reabsorbed into the earth. The idea of waste as we know it today was a completely foreign concept. Modern attitudes around waste and our general lack of awareness about the amount and types of trash we produce indicate the desperate need for an innovative new approach to this issue. Upcycling, the practice of converting waste materials into products of greater value, is a philosophy that transforms the way we conceive of waste. Upcycling is not just a solution to a problem, but a new method of thinking about and working with an asset (formerly known as garbage) which is already present in abundance in our communities.
The Berkana Institute is a 501(c)(3) non-profit organization working in partnership with a rich diversity of people around the world who strengthen their communities by working with the wisdom and wealth already present in their people, traditions and environment. Berkana believes that upcycling is a practice and way of thinking that can lead to more self-reliance and resilience in communities everywhere. We’ve created this online portal to provide a rich learning space to advance our collective knowledge around how to transform waste into an asset. Berkana’s beliefs about how change happens begin with the practice of “naming”: We recognize that pioneers often act in isolation, unaware that they are part of a broader community of kindred practitioners.
By noticing and naming the practice of upcycling, Berkana invites a learning community to form in which practitioners exchange ideas and co-create new solutions. We hope the practice of upcycling will become a natural way of living—that it becomes just what we do. By sharing stories from around the world, we will begin to demonstrate that upcycling isn’t some harebrained idea; instead, it is simply a better way to live on this small planet. In our work at Berkana for the past four years, we have learned that it is through these kinds of communities that learning accelerates, and healthy and robust practices develop quickly. As communities of practice develop their expertise and stay together, emergence into a system of influence becomes possible.

The Process of Upcycling


Upcycling (unlike recycling) is the practice of taking something that is disposable and transforming it into something of greater use and value.”


What if every piece of clothing you bought was specifically designed so it could be taken apart and reused when you were finished with it?
We throw a staggering amount of stuff into landfill. Even if you look just at the UK and just at clothing and textiles…. we throw 1.8 million tonnes away every year. That's the weight of over 2 billion pints of beer!
You could just say that that’s a shame. But ‘upcycling’ starts from the idea that it’s a waste. That we’re wasting 1.8 million tonnes worth of valuable resources just because we don’t know what to do with it. (Would you waste 2 billion pints of beer??)
Over the last decade, some pioneering individuals and companies have started to look for ways to reinvent their design processes so they waste less.
At Worn Again, we want to help any company that currently uses a lot of fabric (often that means uniforms, but, for us, it could just as easily mean hot air balloons….). We focus on finding simple ways to cut down on waste by re-inventing textiles that are destined for the scrap heap. 
So how do you work with existing manufacturers and distribution systems in a way that doesn’t create unnecessary waste?
UK clothing and corporate uniforms are mainly produced overseas. They are then shipped to the UK for distribution and use. After a period of 18-24 months (for corporate uniforms), these items have reached the end of life they were originally designed for. Some are torn up for rags, some are given to charity, some are recycled. Most end up in landfill.
We've been building on our experience of ‘upcycling’ all kinds of materials for our Worn Again products, working with more and more large companies. We look at what happens to their waste textile now, what could be saved and how it might be reused within the company.

Why Upcycle?



“The combined waste from clothing and textiles in the UK is about 2.35 million tonnes, 13% going to material recovery (about 300 thousand tonnes), 13% to incineration and 74% (1.8 million tonnes) to landfill.”
University of Cambridge Institute for Manufacturing

33.4 million corporate clothing and workwear garments are sold in the UK alone each year

Around 11 million people (30% of the working population) in the UK wear corporte clothing and workwear

98% of corporatewear garments currently end up in landfill, equivalent to 10,000 tonnes per annum

Corporatewear lags both other industries and consumer behaviour with <5% of corporatewear reused or recycled (against 30% for textiles generally)

Reuse & Recycling outperform best in terms of energy and resource use compared to other forms of Waste Management

The high percentage of polyester, typical to corporatewear, make it highly suitable candidate for closed loop upcycling

Every tonne of discarded textiles reused saves 20 tonnes of C02 from entering the atmosphere

Achieving a 100% reuse rate for UK corporatewear would save the equivalent of a 100 Wembley Stadiums from entering the atmosphere each year

What is Upcycling?

Upcycling is the process of converting waste materials or useless products into new materials or products of better quality or a higher environmental value.

The upcycling concept was also the theme of the 1999 book with the same title written by Gunter Pauli and Johannes F. Hartkemeyer. The concept was later incorporated by William McDonough and Michael Braungart in their 2002 book Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things. They state that the goal of upcycling is to prevent wasting potentially useful materials by making use of existing ones. This reduces the consumption of newraw materials when creating new products. Reducing the use of new raw materials can result in a reduction of energy usage, air pollution, water pollution and even greenhouse gas emissions.

Upcycling is the opposite of downcycling, which is the other half of the recycling process. Downcycling involves converting materials and products into new materials of lesser quality. Most recycling involves converting or extracting useful materials from a product and creating a different product or material.[2]

For example, during the recycling process of plastics other than those used to create bottles, many different types of plastics are mixed together, resulting in a hybrid. This hybrid is used in the manufacturing of plastic lumber applications. However, unlike the engineered polymer ABS which hold properties of several plastics well, recycled plastics suffer phase-separation that causes structural weakness in the final product.

In developing countries, where new raw materials are often expensive, upcycling is commonly practiced, largely due to impoverished conditions.

Upcycling has seen an increase in use due to its current marketability and the lowered cost of reused materials.[3] Inhabitat, a blog devoted to sustainability and design, holds an annual upcycling design competition with entries coming from around the globe.[4]

In recent years, the US-based company TerraCycle has brought upcycling into mainstream by creating partnerships with major brands, such J&J, Kraft Foods, BIC, and Aveeno, to upcycle their packaging into new items, all while donating money to schools and charity. Such a large scale operation is only possible with the help of thousands of consumers around the world committed to divert the (otherwise) garbage from the landfill, who send them their used products and packaging.

Upcycling has shown significant growth across the United States. For example, the number of products on Etsy tagged with the word "upcycled" increased from about 7,900 in January 2010 to nearly 30,000 a year later--an increase of 275 percent.[5] As of October 2011, that number stood at nearly 167,000[6], an additional increase of 450%. In addition, an online retailer called Hipcycle is now dedicated to upcycled products, offering “products that are as attractive, durable, and otherwise as desirable as traditional equivalent products.”

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